
Shirts
1. Daniel J. Indiviglio of Ask Men advises men to stick to the dictum, "Less is more." Stay away from see-through shirts, loud colors and lots of flash. Instead, "stay conservative, utilizing soft, muted colors, and/or mild patterns like stripes." Favor high-quality cotton or silk, with an eye toward crisp, matte sheen. Satin is outdated and should be avoided. Buttons should be closed, collar included, with ties in a mild, complementary hue. This is the time to pull out the tie tack and cuff links.
Pants
2. First rule of thumb: Pleats are bad. They add weight to the middle of the body and don't look crisp. Flat fronts are the way to go. "Pleats must be avoided," Indiviglio emphasizes. "That Z. Cavaricci look died in the '80s; just let it go and embrace the flat fronts." Cuffed bottoms are also outmoded, as are pastels and soft, baggy cuts. Pants should be structured, neat and pressed. Get them hemmed to the appropriate length for dress shoes, with a slight crease above the top of the foot.
Classic Black-Tie Tuxedo
3. For those who don't foresee many formal events on their calendar, it may be best to purchase a tux on eBay or to simply rent. Black-tie formal, like white tie, should be tailored and fitted to the body. Many men purchase both a normal-length jacket and a tailcoat for more formal occasions. A well-made tuxedo can last for many years and is worth the investment. Check with rental shops for deals on gently worn tuxes to find great bargains.
White-Tie Style
4. A "white tie" event is more formal than a "black tie" event. According to Tom James of The Perfect Suit, "White tie is the most formal of formal wear and includes silk-face black coattails and dress trousers, white pique dress waistcoat and matching bow tie, white pleated dress shirt with wing collar and French cuffs, formal socks, patent leather shoes, and pearl cuff links or studs." A white-tie ensemble is best custom tailored by a knowledgeable designer, since fit and fabric are essential to the look. A complete ensemble is costly, so be ready to spend up to $5,000 for the suit, woolen overcoat, accessories and hat.
Shoes
5. Footwear should be shiny, unmarked and of high quality. Dress shoes are simple and unornamented, and shouldn't attract overt attention. Appropriate tuxedo shoes are in the oxford style and made with patent leather; for a dress suit, clean-looking ankle boots or tie-up shoes will do. Never cross the brown/black line--leave the informal brown shoes in the closet. Top the look off with proper silk or cashmere dress socks.
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